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Before starting any car-care project,
remove all jewelry, which might
scratch surfaces.

Vacuum before washing your car so you
aren't blowing dirt over a freshly
cleaned car, aren't pulling the vacuum cord
through puddles and aren't vacuuming
mud you've created.

Make sure you clean the engine before
you wash the rest of the car.

Cover your ignition wires so they
don't get wet.

Warm up the engine.
Before cleaning, wet everything
down, including fenders
adjacent to the compartment.

Don't get hood insulation wet if your
car has one.

If your car doesn't have a hood insulation,
degrease and wash underside of hood
last to keep the degreaser from dripping
on you while you are working
under the hood.

Spray the engine compartment
with Degreaser.
But be careful of the sensors
and other electrical
Include the engine block, fire walls,
fender wells, hood hinges and

Wait a few minutes for the
degreaser to work.

While you are waiting, degrease
the door hinges.
Simply, open the door, spray one hinge
with degreaser and carefully flush off
with water.
Be careful not to get the interior of
the car wet.
Repeat the procedure on each

Now back to the engine.
It should  be ready to be flushed
off with water by using
a hose.
First start with the underside of the hood,
then move on to the block,
the fire wall and fender wells.
Inspect area for any remaining
Apply degreaser and flush again if

Blow dry if you have an air
And last, spray compartment with
a water based dressing.

The rest of the car is next.

Hose off the entire car before you
begin washing the exterior.
This helps cool off warm metal and
rinses away any lose debris that could
scratch the paint.

Don't wash your car in direct sunlight,
especially on a hot day and
sunny day.
Hot metal will cause water
droplets to dry much faster, which
can leave water spots on the paint.
Choose a cool and shady place.
If this is not possible, try washing
in the early morning or late

Wet down the entire car to avoid staining
of painted surfaces.
Spray All Purpose Cleaner and
scrub with Wheel brush and
Detail brush.
Rinse with plenty of water.
Again, wet down the entire painted
Repeat process and rinse.
Some areas may need repeated

Don't use too much car-wash concentrate
in your bucket of water or it will leave
a filmy residue on the glass

Whitewalls and wheels:

Flush wheels with water to remove
loose dust.

Spray a wheel cleaner on
the wheel.
(Don't spray on dry, hot wheels
with product.)
Let stand according to the
directions on the product.

Flush with lots of water.
Repeat if necessary.

To help clean wheels, and especially
lug nuts, use a soft-bristle
paint brush.
But put electrical tape on the
metal of the brush to prevent

Spray Whitewall Cleaner on tires.
Brush with a Nylon or Brass
Whitewall Brush.
Next, flush with water and flush out
the fender well.
Move to next wheel, repeat the process
if necessary.

 To protect wheels from over-spray when
applying protectants to the rubber,
make a "wheel mask" out of cardboard.
Cut a circle of corrugated cardboard to
the diameter of your wheel rim so
it fits snugly.
Cut two 5-inch clots about
1 - 1 1/2 in.

apart in the center of the cardboard
to serve as a handle.
Cover the cardboard with duct tape to
make it waterproof and durable.

To remove grease or oil stains on the
carpet or seat fabric, apply cornstarch
to the spot.
Let it sit an hour, then vacuum.

If you have other carpet or seat stains,
spray carpet cleaner, scrub and use
carpet brush.
Take a clean terry towel and rub
over area to soak up cleaner.

Decide how dirty your floor mats are.
If vacuuming will not clean them,
wet them, and spray on carpet cleaner
and scrub with carpet brush.
Then, rinse until the water runs clear.
Use a wet/dry vacuum to suck up
the water.
Then hang mats over a fence or
clothes line to dry the rest of
the way.

To remove lipstick, blot the spot with
white vinegar and rinse wit
fresh water.
For coffee, saturate with club soda
and blot with a clean rag.
To remove cigarette smoke from windows,
use a 50/50 solution of ammonia and

If you have a rear window defroster,
use a window cleaner designed for
automotive glass.

Ammonia can break down the heating
elements in your rear window, those
thin lines, which are small wires used
for defrosting.

When you clean the rear glass, scrub
gently, and in the direction of the
defroster grid, not across it.

Dust the dash, cracks, crevices,
console, etc.

Brush out the air vents.
Take an inexpensive artist’s paintbrush
and give it a light shot of furniture
Work the brush into the crevices
to collect the dust.
Wipe the brush off with a rag and
move on to the next one.

Use vinyl trim dressing on dash boards,
doors and console.

If you have leather seats, use only
specifically designed leather
cleaners on your leather seats.

A good interior protectant is
especially useful for the many
vinyl and leather portions of the
car's interior.
Not only do they provide protection
from dirt and grime, as well as the sun's
harmful rays, but they also offer an
attractive shine.

To clean hard-to-reach places,
such as air vents, use long-stemmed
cotton swabs.

 Any solvent-based cleaner will
speed the aging of leather.
And keep conditioners and cleaners away
from leather seat stitching to prevent

Wash your waxing pads and towels
with a liquid fabric softener to reduce
the chance of scratching body panels
during the next wax or polish.

Hard water spots often can be removed
with a soft terry-cloth towel dampened
with white vinegar.

When removing wax or polish, use a soft
towel and shake it out frequently to
shed dried wax.
It is better to use more speed
than pressure because excessive
pressure can cause abrasion
and scratches in the paint.

 In drying your car, use a non-abrasive
material such as a 100% cotton towel
or chamois.

Drying includes lifting the hood and
deck lid, and opening the doors to
get the interior surfaces where water
is trapped.
Then take your vehicle once around the
block to air-dry.

After you car is cool and dry,
look to for swirl marks, scratches and
any other imperfections.
For a dull and neglected finish,
use a Clear-Coat Body Scrub.
Apply the body scrub at one
section at a time.
After is has hazed over (about 5-8
minutes depending on humidity and
temperature ) wipe of in circular
motions with a high quality 100%
cotton towels.
Remember to always be turning
over the towel and using a clean
side at all times.
This is a good time to gently rub
the finish with your hand to see
if it smooth as silk.
If you are not satisfied with the finish you
can reapply the body scrub to get the
desired result.

If you have light swirl marks and
light scratches, use a Professional
Swirl Remover.
Apply it in the same manner that
you applied the Body Scrub.
Do one section at a time and completely
remove all residues of the swirl remover
before continuing.
Next, apply the polish, this creates
a deep gloss.
Use either a Show Car Glaze or
a Deep Crystal Polish.
Apply the polish while working it
into the finish.
The more you work polish into a

finish, the more of a shine you get.
Take your time, and work one section
at a time.

Use a clean 100% Cotton Towel at all
times so not to scratch the surface
you worked hard to achieve.
Apply 2-3 coats of polish to get
the “show car” quality finish.

Wax is applied to the surface to
protect your work.
The best way to apply wax is in
thin coats.
Apply 2 or 3 coats and wiping off
with a 100% Cotton Towel.

If you get wax around the car's name
badge, lettering or in crevices your
soft towel won't reach, remove it with a
soft bristle toothbrush or

If your car has a clear-coat finish,
waxes and polished won't increase
color richness or depth because
that top coat has no color.
But you can improve surface gloss
by filling in the swirls and hairline
scratches with wax or polish.

 Don't use a professional-type electric
buffer with two handles at 90-degree
angles because they spin at 2600 rpm or
more and can burn through the paint.

Rub cream leather conditioner into
the seats with your hands,
like a skin lotion, because cloth
soaks up the conditioner
and wastes too much.